Smoke and Chili

Mix the 59 ml Morton kosher salt and 59 ml 16 mesh coarse ground black pepper in a shaker.

Trim the lean side of the 5440 to 6350 g whole packer beef brisket, USDA Prime: cut away the dry, discoloured edge, the silverskin and loose surface fat, thin the hard seam of fat between the point and the flat, square off the thin end of the flat and round its corners.

Turn it over and trim the fat cap to an even 6.4 mm (¼ in), removing any hard fat that will not render and the loose flap on the side of the point.

Shake the rub evenly over every surface and leave the brisket at room temperature for 1 h while the fire comes up to temperature.

Light the smoker and bring it to a steady 121 °C to 135 °C. On an offset, build a small, clean-burning bed of oak coals in the firebox and add a split whenever the temperature starts to sag.

Put the brisket on the cooker, insert the meat probe horizontally into the thickest part of the flat, close the lid and leave it alone for 3 h while the bark sets.

Spray the brisket lightly with apple cider vinegar, for spritzing and repeat every 30 min, keeping the cooker between 121 °C and 135 °C, until the flat reaches 77 °C. This usually takes 5 h to 7 h from the start.

Lift the brisket off, spray it generously one last time and wrap it snugly like a parcel in a large sheet of butcher paper, overlapping two sheets if your roll is narrow.

Return it to the cooker fat side up and cook until the flat reaches 96 °C and is probe tender. Check by pushing an instant read thermometer straight down into the centre of the flat.

Leave the brisket in its paper on the counter for 10 min, then lay a towel in an empty cooler, put in the brisket, cover with another towel and close the lid. Rest for 2 h to 3 h, keeping it above 60 °C.

Unwrap and slice only what you will serve. Cut the flat across the grain into 6.4 mm (¼ in) slices; when you reach the point, turn the brisket a quarter turn and cut the point across its own grain into 9.5 mm (⅜ in) slices. Serve any sauce on the side.

Heat the 6 dried ancho chiles, 2 dried pasilla chiles, 2 dried costeño chiles, 2 dried guajillo chiles and 4 dried chiles de árbols in a dry cast iron skillet over medium heat for a couple of minutes on each side.

Turn off the heat, pour in enough water to cover the chiles and leave them to soak for 30 min.

Drain and rinse the chiles, throwing away the bitter soaking water. Blend them with the 2 chipotles in adobos and 235 ml fresh water, for blending until completely smooth.

While the chiles soak, fry the 4 slices bacon in a large Dutch oven until crisp. Lift it out and crumble it, leaving the fat in the pot.

Brown the 1810 g beef chuck roast in the bacon fat over medium heat in two batches, a few minutes on each side, then lift it out.

Cook the 1 onion in the same pot over medium heat until translucent, then add the 6 cloves garlic and cook for another 1 min.

Return the beef and add the 235 ml brewed coffee, 355 ml beer, 475 ml water, crumbled bacon, 15 ml ground cumin, 2.5 ml ground cinnamon, 2.5 ml ground cloves, 2.5 ml ground allspice, 5 ml ground coriander and 2.5 ml cayenne. Season with salt, turn the heat to high and stir in the chile purée.

When it boils, turn the heat to low and simmer for 5 h, stirring now and then. Taste every hour, adding more spice if the flavour is muted and more liquid if it gets too dry.

Grate the ⅓ Mexican hot chocolate tablets into the pot. Scoop out a cup of the broth, whisk in the 59 ml masa harina until smooth, then stir it back into the chili.

Simmer for about 30 min more, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve with grated cheddar, to serve, chopped onion, to serve and warm tortillas, to serve.