Lamb Rogan Josh

Heat 1 ½ tbsp neutral oil and fry 1 ¼ cups shallots or yellow onion over medium heat until golden and on the edge of caramelising.

Let them cool, then blend with 2 to 3 tbsp plain yogurt to a smooth paste. Set aside.

Heat 2 to 3 tbsp ghee or mustard oil in a heavy pot. Add 1 leaf bay leaf, 3 pods green cardamom pods, 1 cinnamon stick (2.5 cm piece), 3 to 4 whole cloves and 1 pod black cardamom pod.

Add 500 g bone-in lamb or goat, shoulder or leg and sear over high heat for 1 min to 2 min, then lower to medium and fry, turning the pieces.

While the meat browns, whisk ½ cup plain yogurt (curd), at room temperature and not sour in a bowl with 1 to 1 ½ tbsp Kashmiri chili powder, 2 tsp ground fennel (saunf powder), 1 tsp dry ginger powder (sonth) and ¾ tsp salt. If the yogurt is very thick, thin it with a few spoons of water or stock.

When the meat is light brown, sprinkle ¼ tsp asafoetida (hing) into the fat. Take the pot off the heat and stir in the yogurt mixture a little at a time so it does not split.

Return the pot to medium heat, cover and cook for 3 min to 4 min.

Pour in 1 cup hot water or lamb stock, cover and cook on low heat, stirring every 7 min or so and adding 1 to 4 cups more hot water, as needed whenever the pot looks dry. If using the onion paste, stir it in for the last 20 min.

Taste and adjust the salt, and stir in 1 tsp garam masala if you like. Turn off the heat and let it rest for a few hours if you can before reheating and serving with steamed basmati rice or naan.