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Hyderabadi Chicken Dum Biryani

4 servings

Fried Onions (Birista)

  • 1large onion, very thinly sliced, layers separated
  • ¼ cupneutral oil or ghee

Marinated Chicken

  • 1.1 lbskinless bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks
  • ⅔ cupplain yogurt, not sour
  • ¾ tspsalt
  • ¼ tspground turmeric
  • 1 to 1 ½ tspred chili powder
  • 1 to 1 ½ tspbiryani masala or garam masala
  • ¼ to ½ tspground green cardamom
  • 1 to 2green chilies, slit
  • 1 ¼ tbspginger garlic paste
  • 1 tbsplemon juice

Par-Cooked Rice

  • 1 ½ cupsaged basmati rice
  • 1 tspoil
  • 1 leafbay leaf
  • 1 stickcinnamon stick (7 cm piece)
  • 6whole cloves
  • 4 podsgreen cardamom pods
  • 1star anise
  • 1 podblack cardamom pod
  • 2mace blades
  • ½ tspshahi jeera (caraway seeds)
  • 7 cupswater
  • 1 to 1 ¼ tspsalt

Layering and Dum

  • ¼ tspsaffron threads
  • 3 tbsphot milk
  • ¼ cupmint leaves, finely chopped, divided
  • 3 tbspcoriander leaves, finely chopped, divided
  • ¼ to ½ tspbiryani masala or garam masala
  • 2 tbspghee
  • 1 tbspcoriander leaves, to garnish, finely chopped
  1. Fried Onions (Birista) Heat ¼ cup neutral oil or ghee in a deep pan over medium heat. Fry 1 large onion, stirring often, until evenly browned. 15 min to 20 min
  2. Lift the onions out onto a plate; they crisp as they cool. Let the flavoured oil cool and keep it for the pot.
  3. Marinated Chicken In a large bowl, mix ⅔ cup plain yogurt, not sour, ¾ tsp salt, ¼ tsp ground turmeric, 1 to 1 ½ tsp red chili powder, 1 to 1 ½ tsp biryani masala or garam masala, ¼ to ½ tsp ground green cardamom, 1 to 2 green chilies, 1 ¼ tbsp ginger garlic paste and 1 tbsp lemon juice. Taste and add more salt or spice if needed. 5 min
  4. Add 1.1 lb skinless bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks, turn to coat, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 h, ideally overnight. 4 °C
  5. Par-Cooked Rice Wash 1 ½ cups aged basmati rice in several changes of water until it runs clear, then soak it for 30 min. Drain.
  6. Bring 7 cups water to a boil in a large pot with 1 tsp oil, 1 to 1 ¼ tsp salt, 1 leaf bay leaf, 1 stick cinnamon stick (7 cm piece), 6 whole cloves, 4 pods green cardamom pods, 1 star anise, 1 pod black cardamom pod, 2 mace blades and ½ tsp shahi jeera (caraway seeds). Taste it, then boil hard for 5 min to release the aroma. 100 °C
  7. Start this while the chicken goes into the pot. Add the drained rice and boil until it is three-quarters cooked, then drain at once in a colander. 4 min to 6 min
  8. Layering and Dum Soak ¼ tsp saffron threads in 3 tbsp hot milk while you prepare everything else. 15 min
  9. Tip the chicken and all its marinade into the heavy pot. Pour over the reserved onion oil and add half the fried onions, half of ¼ cup mint leaves and two thirds of 3 tbsp coriander leaves. Mix and spread the chicken in a single, even layer. 5 min
  10. Spread the drained rice evenly over the chicken without pressing it down. Scatter over the remaining fried onions, mint and coriander, then sprinkle with ¼ to ½ tsp biryani masala or garam masala. Drizzle the saffron milk and 2 tbsp ghee over the top. 3 min
  11. Cover the pot tightly with foil, then press on a heavy lid so no steam can escape.
  12. Set the pot on a hot, heavy griddle over medium-high heat, with the flame spread across the whole base. Cook for exactly 20 min.
  13. Turn the heat down to the lowest setting and cook for exactly 15 min more.
  14. Turn off the heat and leave the pot sealed for 20 min to 30 min. Open, scatter with 1 tbsp coriander leaves, to garnish and serve by scooping down to the bottom so every plate gets rice and chicken.
  • Safety: mint leaves and coriander leaves and coriander leaves, to garnish in oil can grow botulism at room temperature. Keep it in the fridge and use within 4 days. (USDA FSIS)
  • Safety: Poultry should reach 74 °C (165 °F) at the centre. (USDA FSIS)
  • Safety: The chicken goes in raw and cooks only in the sealed steam. Before serving, check that the thickest piece is cooked through to 74 C at the bone; if not, reseal and cook longer on low heat. (The author)