Ossobuco alla Milanese, · 4 servings

Heat the extra virgin olive oil, a drizzle in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the 1.32 lb beef bones and toast them on both sides for 3 min to 4 min.

Add the 1 stalk celery, 1 carrot and ½ onions and sauté for 3 min to 4 min more.

Pour in the 8 ½ cups water to cover, put the lid on and bring to the boil. Turn the heat to low and simmer for about 2 h from the boil. Keep it hot for the braise.

Heat a swirl of the 1.75 oz extra virgin olive oil in a large sauté pan, add the 9 oz yellow onions and stew them over medium-low heat for 15 min to 20 min.

Pour in 1 oz dry white wine (half) and let the alcohol cook off completely, then lower the heat a little and cook the onions for 10 min more. Lift them out and set aside.

Meanwhile, with scissors, make three short cuts through the membrane around the edge of each of the 2.65 lb cross-cut veal shanks (4 pieces of about 300 g) so they stay flat as they cook.

Season the 6 ⅓ tbsp 00 flour with fine salt and black pepper in a shallow dish. Dredge the shanks on both sides and shake off the excess.

Add the rest of the oil and the 1.5 oz butter to the onion pan. When the butter has melted and foams, lay in the shanks and brown them over medium-high heat without moving them, then turn and brown the other side.

Pour in the 1 oz dry white wine (the rest) and let it evaporate. Ladle in enough hot broth to almost cover the meat, then return the onions to the pan.

Cover, lower the heat and braise for 55 min to 1 h, turning the shanks halfway through. Take the lid off for the last 10 min so the sauce reduces.

While the meat braises, drop the 2 cloves garlic into boiling water for 2 min to tame it, then drain. You can skip this for a sharper gremolada.

Chop the garlic and the 1 bunch a small bunch of flat-leaf parsley together very finely.

Once the ossobuco is done, turn off the heat, scatter the parsley and garlic over it and grate the 1 zest of 1 unwaxed lemon directly on top. Serve at once, spooning the sauce over the meat.