French Onion Soup, · 8 servings

Melt 3 tbsp unsalted butter in the pot over medium heat. Add 3 lb yellow onions, toss to coat them in butter and cover. Turn the heat down to medium-low and leave them to steep, untouched, for 15 min.

Uncover, raise the heat slightly and stir in 1 to 2 tsp fine sea salt. Cook, stirring every five minutes or so, for 40 to 90 min longer, until the onions are an even, deep golden brown. Turn the heat down if they colour too fast.

Add ¼ cup dry sherry, vermouth or white wine, if using, and scrape up any onion stuck to the pot. Cook until the liquid disappears.

Add 2 quart beef stock, or chicken or mushroom stock, 1 leaf bay leaf or a few sprigs of thyme and plenty of freshly ground black pepper. Bring to a simmer, partly cover and simmer for 15 min to 20 min. Taste for salt and fish out the bay leaf or thyme.

While the soup simmers, heat the broiler, or heat the oven as hot as it will go if you have no broiler.

Unless 8 slices slices of country bread or baguette is already stale, toast the slices lightly until firm. Rub each one lightly with the cut 1 clove garlic.

Set the bowls on a foil-lined baking sheet and ladle in the hot soup. Fit a toast on top of each, trimming it if needed, and cover with 2 cups Gruyère, Comté, or Gruyère mixed with Parmesan.

Slide the sheet under the broiler until the cheese is melted and browned at the edges. Serve straight away; the soup stays hot for a good 10 min.