Thai Green Curry, · 2 servings

Grind 1 tsp coriander seeds, ½ tsp cumin seeds and ¼ tsp white peppercorns to a fine powder in the mortar or a spice grinder and set aside.

Pound 7.5 g green Thai chilies or serrano peppers and 7.5 g milder long green chilies with ½ tsp coarse salt until mostly fine. If the mixture gets wet and slippery, add some of the ground spices to soak up the liquid.

Add 7 ½ leaves Thai basil leaves and pound to a fine paste.

Add 1 ½ tbsp lemongrass, bottom half of the stalk only, ¾ tbsp galangal, 1 tsp makrut lime zest (or the zest of half a lime) and 1 cilantro roots (or 4 cilantro stems) and pound until fine.

Add 1 ½ tbsp shallots, 1 tbsp garlic and any remaining ground spices and pound into a smooth paste.

Add ½ tsp fermented shrimp paste (gapi) and pound just to mix it in.

Bring ⅓ cup coconut milk, for frying the paste to a full boil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add all of the the green curry paste and fry, stirring often, until the coconut oil separates from the paste. If it sticks, loosen it with a splash of the remaining coconut milk or stock.

Add 0.5 lb boneless, skinless chicken thighs and stir to coat it in the paste.

Add ½ cup unsalted chicken stock, ½ cup coconut milk, 1 tbsp palm sugar (or light brown sugar) and two thirds of the ¾ to 1 tbsp fish sauce. Twist 2 ½ leaves makrut lime leaves to bruise them, tear them into pieces off the centre stem and drop them in. Bring to a simmer and cook gently until the chicken is tender.

Meanwhile, cut 0.25 lb Thai eggplants into bite-size wedges, six to twelve per eggplant depending on size, and keep them in water so they do not brown.

Drain the eggplant into the curry and push the pieces under for the first minute so they stay pale, then simmer about 2 min more.

Turn off the heat, stir in ⅛ red bell peppers to soften in the residual heat, then ½ cup Thai basil leaves. Taste and add the rest of the fish sauce if needed. Serve with steamed jasmine rice, for serving.