Tonkotsu Ramen, · 24 servings

Put 4080 g pig trotters, split lengthwise or cut into 2.5 cm discs and 2720 g chicken backs and carcasses, skin and excess fat removed in the stockpot, cover with cold water and bring to a boil over high heat. Take it off the heat the moment it boils.

Meanwhile, heat 89 ml vegetable oil in the skillet over high heat until it just smokes. Add 3 onions, skin on, 36 cloves garlic and 3 knob fresh gingers, about 7.5 cm and cook, tossing now and then, until deeply charred on most sides.

Drain the bones and discard the water. Wash every bone under cold running water, scrubbing off dark marrow and clotted blood; a chopstick helps clear the trotters and chicken spines.

Return the bones to the clean pot with the charred aromatics, 6 leeks, 72 scallions, white parts only (keep the greens for serving), 510 g whole mushrooms or mushroom trimmings and 1360 g pork fatback, in one slab. Cover with cold water and bring to a rolling boil over high heat, skimming off the scum as it rises and wiping the rim clean.

Set a heavy lid on the pot and adjust the heat so it keeps a steady, rolling boil; check after 15 min. Boil until the fatback is completely tender.

Lift out the fatback with a slotted spatula, seal it in a container and refrigerate it for the end.

Cover again and keep boiling, topping up with water so the bones stay submerged, until the broth is opaque with the body of light cream.

Uncover and boil hard over high heat until reduced to about three quarts, just under three litres.

Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean pot and discard the solids. For a cleaner soup, strain again through several layers of cheesecloth. Ladle off and discard the liquid fat on top.

Finely chop the cooked fatback and whisk it into the hot broth.

Combine 90 g kombu, 90 g bonito flakes (katsuobushi), 90 g salted dried anchovies or sardines (niboshi), whole, 90 g dried shiitake, whole, 1500 g light soy sauce, 15 g sugar and 4500 g water in a pot and bring just to a simmer.

Take the pot off the heat and let it steep for 1 h, then strain and discard the solids.

Roll 2720 to 3400 g skinless pork belly, in one slab up tightly along its length so the layered meat and fat show at the ends. Tie a double knot of twine round one end, leaving a short tail, then wrap the twine round the roll every 1 cm (⅜ in) as tightly as you can, and knot it back to the tail.

Heat 44 ml neutral oil in a skillet over high heat and sear the roll on every side, turning it as each side browns.

While it sears, put 710 ml sake, 710 ml soy sauce, 1.42 l water and 475 ml sugar in a heavy pot that fits the roll snugly, with 3 Tokyo negi (long green onion), green part only, or the green top of a leek and 12 slices fresh ginger, unpeeled.

Add the seared pork and bring to a boil over medium heat. Skim off the foam, then turn the heat to low.

Lay a drop lid directly on the pork and simmer gently, turning the roll every 30 min, until tender and the liquid has reduced a little.

Let the pork cool slightly, then put it in a bag or snug container with about half a cup of the strained braising liquid; in a container, the liquid should come 2.5 cm (1 in) up the sides. Strain and keep the rest of the liquid. Refrigerate overnight.

Next day, cut off the twine and slice the roll 6 mm (¼ in) thick. Lift the solidified fat off the saved sauce and strain it again. Just before serving, sear the slices with a kitchen torch or under a hot broiler.

Whisk 355 ml soy sauce, 355 ml mirin, 355 ml sake, or water and 30 ml sugar in a small saucepan until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil, simmer 1 min, then cool completely.

Bring a saucepan of water deep enough to cover the eggs by 2.5 cm (1 in) to a full boil. Lower in 24 large eggs, straight from the fridge one at a time with a ladle and keep the water at a gentle simmer for 7 min, so the eggs do not knock about.

Move the eggs straight into iced water and leave them until completely cold.

Crack each egg at the wide end and peel toward the tip, dipping it in the iced water to help the shell come away.

Put the eggs in a bag with the cooled marinade, press out the air and seal it just above the eggs so they stay submerged. Refrigerate, turning now and then.

Put 175 ml toasted sesame oil and 15 cloves garlic in a small saucepan over medium-low heat and cook, stirring now and then, until the garlic is very dark brown. Turn the heat to low and keep going until it is black, then take it straight off the heat.

Pour into a heatproof bowl and cool completely, then blend until no garlic bits remain and the oil is evenly black. Refrigerate in a jar.

Bring 4 l water, for the noodles to a boil in a large pot. Thinly slice the reserved scallion greens and halve the eggs lengthwise.

For each bowl, bring an eighth of the the tare and an eighth of the the tonkotsu broth to a boil together in a small pot. For an extra creamy, frothy soup, blend it briefly with an immersion blender. Warm two slices of chashu in the soup.

Cook one portion of 3360 g fresh ramen noodles at a time in the boiling water, about 2 min for fresh noodles, then drain well.

Pour the hot soup into a warmed bowl and add the noodles. Top with the chashu, an egg, a pile of scallion greens and a few drops of the mayu (black garlic oil). Serve at once.