Risotto alla Milanese, · 12 servings

Grind the a pinch of saffron threads (or 2 small sachets of saffron powder) to a powder in a mortar, then pour over the a few spoonfuls of warm water or broth and leave it to infuse for at least 15 min, longer if you can. Saffron powder only needs stirring in to dissolve.

Bring the 3 l beef broth, ideally homemade to a gentle simmer in a saucepan and keep it there, next to the risotto pan.

Melt the 120 to 150 g butter in a wide, heavy pan over low heat. Add the 120 to 150 g beef bone marrow and 3 onion (or 2 shallots) and cook very gently, stirring now and then.

Raise the heat to medium, add the 1200 g Carnaroli or Vialone Nano rice and stir it in the fat until every grain is coated and hot.

Pour in the a splash of dry white wine and stir until it has evaporated.

Add a ladle of hot broth and stir gently until it is almost absorbed, then add the next. Keep going a ladle at a time, at a lively simmer.

About halfway through, pour in the saffron with all its liquid and keep cooking as before. For a stronger saffron flavour, add it in the last 5 min instead.

Taste the rice: it is ready when tender but with a slight firmness at the centre. Season with salt if the broth needs it.

Turn off the heat. Add the 150 to 180 g Parmigiano Reggiano and the 6 tbsp butter, for finishing and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon for a minute or two.

Spoon onto warm plates straight away and pass extra Parmigiano Reggiano, to serve at the table.