Cochinita Pibil, · 12 servings

Put the 74 ml achiote (annatto) seeds, 22 ml dried oregano, preferably Mexican, 22 ml black peppercorns, 6 ml cumin seeds, 2.5 ml cloves, preferably whole and 22 ml cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela in a spice grinder and grind, in batches if needed, until as powdery as you can get them.

Blend the ground spices with the 15 ml salt, 14 cloves garlic and 355 ml fresh sour orange juice until very smooth.

For the smoothest marinade, pour it into a non-aluminum container, cover and refrigerate for at least 6 h, then blend it again before using. This step is worth it but not essential.

Turn the 5440 g bone-in pork shoulder (Boston butt) roasts in the marinade in a large bowl or food bag until evenly coated, working quickly because achiote stains. Refrigerate for several hours or overnight.

Heat a gas grill to medium-high, or light charcoal and let it burn until the coals are covered in grey ash. Set it up for indirect cooking: turn the centre burners to medium-low, or bank the coals to the sides.

Trim the hard edge off the 455 g banana leaves. Line a large roasting pan with three overlapping lengths, each about 30 cm (11 ¾ in) longer than the pan, so they hang over the sides. Lay in the meat, pour over all the marinade, fold the overhanging leaves over it, then cover with three more lengths tucked in around the edges.

Set the pan on the grill grate over the unlit area, close the lid and cook, keeping the lid temperature at about 163 °C, give or take a little, until the meat is completely tender. On charcoal, add a few pieces every half hour or so.

Peel back the top leaves, tilt the pan so the juices collect at one end and spoon off the fat. Taste the juices and add salt if needed. Serve straight from the pan with a big fork and spoon, with the onions and salsa alongside.

Put the 680 g red onions in a non-aluminum bowl, pour boiling water over them, wait 10 s, then tip into a strainer.

Return the onions to the bowl, pour over the 475 ml fresh sour orange juice and stir in the 7.5 ml salt. Cover and leave until serving, then drain.

Roast the 85 g fresh habanero chiles and 2 cloves large garlic cloves, unpeeled in an ungreased skillet over medium heat, turning regularly, 5 min to 10 min for the chiles and about 15 min for the garlic. Let cool and slip the skins off the garlic.

Blend the chiles and garlic with the 30 ml fresh lime juice and enough 30 to 59 ml water to make a spoonable salsa. Taste carefully and season with 2.5 ml salt.