Paella Valenciana, · 6 servings

Wash and dry 7 oz flat green beans (ferraúra), top and tail them and cut them into short lengths.

Wash 2 ripe tomatoes, scald them in boiling water for a few seconds and peel, then grate the flesh on a box grater.

Season 16 oz chicken, chopped into small pieces on the bone and 10.5 oz rabbit, chopped into small pieces on the bone with salt and black pepper. Heat 6 ¾ tbsp extra virgin olive oil in the paella pan and brown the meat well on every side.

Push the meat to the edges, add the green beans to the centre and fry them in the oil. Add 1 tsp sweet paprika (pimentón dulce), lower the heat and stir for a few seconds so it does not burn.

Quickly add the grated tomato before the paprika catches and fry it with everything else until it darkens and thickens.

Pour in 6 cups water, three times the volume of the rice, then add a little salt, 7 oz garrofó beans, fresh or frozen and 10.5 oz snails, well cleaned, if using.

Boil hard over high heat for 15 min to 20 min so the broth takes the flavour of the meat. Taste: it should be well seasoned, slightly salty.

Crumble in saffron threads, lightly toasted and scatter 14 oz round paella rice, such as bomba evenly across the pan. Nudge the meat and beans so they sit evenly, then leave it alone: no more stirring from here on.

Cook over high heat for 5 min, then over medium heat for 5 min, then over very low heat for 5 min to 8 min, until the water has been absorbed.

In the final minutes on low heat, listen to the pan: a gentle crackle means the bottom layer is toasting into socarrat. Take it off the heat as soon as it smells toasty, before it smells burnt.

Lay 2 to 3 sprigs rosemary on top, turn off the heat and let the paella rest for 5 min before serving from the pan. Remove the rosemary at the table.