Lamb Rogan Josh, · 3 servings

Heat 22 ml neutral oil and fry 295 ml shallots or yellow onion over medium heat until golden and on the edge of caramelising.

Let them cool, then blend with 30 to 44 ml plain yogurt to a smooth paste. Set aside.

Heat 30 to 44 ml ghee or mustard oil in a heavy pot. Add 1 leaf bay leaf, 3 pods green cardamom pods, 1 cinnamon stick (2.5 cm piece), 3 to 4 whole cloves and 1 pod black cardamom pod.

Add 500 g bone-in lamb or goat, shoulder or leg and sear over high heat for 1 min to 2 min, then lower to medium and fry, turning the pieces.

While the meat browns, whisk 120 ml plain yogurt (curd), at room temperature and not sour in a bowl with 15 to 22 ml Kashmiri chili powder, 10 ml ground fennel (saunf powder), 5 ml dry ginger powder (sonth) and 3.5 ml salt. If the yogurt is very thick, thin it with a few spoons of water or stock.

When the meat is light brown, sprinkle 1 ml asafoetida (hing) into the fat. Take the pot off the heat and stir in the yogurt mixture a little at a time so it does not split.

Return the pot to medium heat, cover and cook for 3 min to 4 min.

Pour in 235 ml hot water or lamb stock, cover and cook on low heat, stirring every 7 min or so and adding 235 to 945 ml more hot water, as needed whenever the pot looks dry. If using the onion paste, stir it in for the last 20 min.

Taste and adjust the salt, and stir in 5 ml garam masala if you like. Turn off the heat and let it rest for a few hours if you can before reheating and serving with steamed basmati rice or naan.