Hyderabadi Chicken Dum Biryani, · 4 servings

Heat ¼ cup neutral oil or ghee in a deep pan over medium heat. Fry 1 large onion, stirring often, until evenly browned.

Lift the onions out onto a plate; they crisp as they cool. Let the flavoured oil cool and keep it for the pot.

In a large bowl, mix ⅔ cup plain yogurt, not sour, ¾ tsp salt, ¼ tsp ground turmeric, 1 to 1 ½ tsp red chili powder, 1 to 1 ½ tsp biryani masala or garam masala, ¼ to ½ tsp ground green cardamom, 1 to 2 green chilies, 1 ¼ tbsp ginger garlic paste and 1 tbsp lemon juice. Taste and add more salt or spice if needed.

Add 1.1 lb skinless bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks, turn to coat, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 h, ideally overnight.

Wash 1 ½ cups aged basmati rice in several changes of water until it runs clear, then soak it for 30 min. Drain.

Bring 7 cups water to a boil in a large pot with 1 tsp oil, 1 to 1 ¼ tsp salt, 1 leaf bay leaf, 1 stick cinnamon stick (7 cm piece), 6 whole cloves, 4 pods green cardamom pods, 1 star anise, 1 pod black cardamom pod, 2 mace blades and ½ tsp shahi jeera (caraway seeds). Taste it, then boil hard for 5 min to release the aroma.

Start this while the chicken goes into the pot. Add the drained rice and boil until it is three-quarters cooked, then drain at once in a colander.

Soak ¼ tsp saffron threads in 3 tbsp hot milk while you prepare everything else.

Tip the chicken and all its marinade into the heavy pot. Pour over the reserved onion oil and add half the fried onions, half of ¼ cup mint leaves and two thirds of 3 tbsp coriander leaves. Mix and spread the chicken in a single, even layer.

Spread the drained rice evenly over the chicken without pressing it down. Scatter over the remaining fried onions, mint and coriander, then sprinkle with ¼ to ½ tsp biryani masala or garam masala. Drizzle the saffron milk and 2 tbsp ghee over the top.

Cover the pot tightly with foil, then press on a heavy lid so no steam can escape.

Set the pot on a hot, heavy griddle over medium-high heat, with the flame spread across the whole base. Cook for exactly 20 min.

Turn the heat down to the lowest setting and cook for exactly 15 min more.

Turn off the heat and leave the pot sealed for 20 min to 30 min. Open, scatter with 1 tbsp coriander leaves, to garnish and serve by scooping down to the bottom so every plate gets rice and chicken.