Hyderabadi Chicken Dum Biryani, · 4 servings

Heat ≈ 54 g neutral oil or ghee in a deep pan over medium heat. Fry ≈ 150 g large onion, stirring often, until evenly browned.

Lift the onions out onto a plate; they crisp as they cool. Let the flavoured oil cool and keep it for the pot.

In a large bowl, mix ≈ 165 g plain yogurt, not sour, ≈ 4.5 g salt, ≈ 0.8 g ground turmeric, ≈ 2 to 2.5 g red chili powder, 2 to 3 g biryani masala or garam masala, ≈ 0.5 to 1 g ground green cardamom, ≈ 4 to 8 g green chilies, ≈ 22 g ginger garlic paste and ≈ 15 g lemon juice. Taste and add more salt or spice if needed.

Add 500 g skinless bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks, turn to coat, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 h, ideally overnight.

Wash ≈ 280 g aged basmati rice in several changes of water until it runs clear, then soak it for 30 min. Drain.

Bring ≈ 1660 g water to a boil in a large pot with ≈ 4.5 g oil, ≈ 6 to 7.5 g salt, ≈ 0.2 g bay leaf, ≈ 3 g cinnamon stick (7 cm piece), ≈ 0.6 g whole cloves, ≈ 0.8 g green cardamom pods, 1 g star anise, ≈ 1 g black cardamom pod, 0.2 g mace blades and ≈ 1 g shahi jeera (caraway seeds). Taste it, then boil hard for 5 min to release the aroma.

Start this while the chicken goes into the pot. Add the drained rice and boil until it is three-quarters cooked, then drain at once in a colander.

Soak ≈ 0.2 g saffron threads in ≈ 46 g hot milk while you prepare everything else.

Tip the chicken and all its marinade into the heavy pot. Pour over the reserved onion oil and add half the fried onions, half of 4 g mint leaves and two thirds of ≈ 3 g coriander leaves. Mix and spread the chicken in a single, even layer.

Spread the drained rice evenly over the chicken without pressing it down. Scatter over the remaining fried onions, mint and coriander, then sprinkle with 0.5 to 1 g biryani masala or garam masala. Drizzle the saffron milk and ≈ 27 g ghee over the top.

Cover the pot tightly with foil, then press on a heavy lid so no steam can escape.

Set the pot on a hot, heavy griddle over medium-high heat, with the flame spread across the whole base. Cook for exactly 20 min.

Turn the heat down to the lowest setting and cook for exactly 15 min more.

Turn off the heat and leave the pot sealed for 20 min to 30 min. Open, scatter with ≈ 1 g coriander leaves, to garnish and serve by scooping down to the bottom so every plate gets rice and chicken.