Hyderabadi Chicken Dum Biryani, · 4 servings

Heat 59 ml neutral oil or ghee in a deep pan over medium heat. Fry 1 large onion, stirring often, until evenly browned.

Lift the onions out onto a plate; they crisp as they cool. Let the flavoured oil cool and keep it for the pot.

In a large bowl, mix 160 ml plain yogurt, not sour, 3.5 ml salt, 1 ml ground turmeric, 5 to 7.5 ml red chili powder, 5 to 7.5 ml biryani masala or garam masala, 1 to 2.5 ml ground green cardamom, 1 to 2 green chilies, 18 ml ginger garlic paste and 15 ml lemon juice. Taste and add more salt or spice if needed.

Add 500 g skinless bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks, turn to coat, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 h, ideally overnight.

Wash 355 ml aged basmati rice in several changes of water until it runs clear, then soak it for 30 min. Drain.

Bring 1.66 l water to a boil in a large pot with 5 ml oil, 5 to 6 ml salt, 1 leaf bay leaf, 1 stick cinnamon stick (7 cm piece), 6 whole cloves, 4 pods green cardamom pods, 1 star anise, 1 pod black cardamom pod, 2 mace blades and 2.5 ml shahi jeera (caraway seeds). Taste it, then boil hard for 5 min to release the aroma.

Start this while the chicken goes into the pot. Add the drained rice and boil until it is three-quarters cooked, then drain at once in a colander.

Soak 1 ml saffron threads in 44 ml hot milk while you prepare everything else.

Tip the chicken and all its marinade into the heavy pot. Pour over the reserved onion oil and add half the fried onions, half of 59 ml mint leaves and two thirds of 44 ml coriander leaves. Mix and spread the chicken in a single, even layer.

Spread the drained rice evenly over the chicken without pressing it down. Scatter over the remaining fried onions, mint and coriander, then sprinkle with 1 to 2.5 ml biryani masala or garam masala. Drizzle the saffron milk and 30 ml ghee over the top.

Cover the pot tightly with foil, then press on a heavy lid so no steam can escape.

Set the pot on a hot, heavy griddle over medium-high heat, with the flame spread across the whole base. Cook for exactly 20 min.

Turn the heat down to the lowest setting and cook for exactly 15 min more.

Turn off the heat and leave the pot sealed for 20 min to 30 min. Open, scatter with 15 ml coriander leaves, to garnish and serve by scooping down to the bottom so every plate gets rice and chicken.