Falafel with Tahini Sauce, · 12 patties

A day ahead, put 235 ml dried chickpeas (not canned or cooked) and 1 ml baking soda in a large bowl with water covering them by at least 5 cm (2 in). Soak until a chickpea is tender enough to bite through, adding more time if they are still hard.

Drain the chickpeas completely and pat them dry with a towel.

Put the chickpeas in the food processor with 120 ml fresh parsley leaves, stems removed, 89 ml fresh cilantro leaves, stems removed, 59 ml fresh dill, stems removed, ½ small onions, 3 ½ to 4 cloves garlic, peeled, salt, 7.5 ml ground black pepper, 7.5 ml ground cumin, 7.5 ml ground coriander and 2.5 ml cayenne pepper. Run it in bursts of about 40 s, scraping down in between, until evenly ground.

Transfer to a container, cover tightly and refrigerate.

Just before frying, stir 2.5 ml baking powder and 15 ml toasted sesame seeds into the mixture with a spoon.

With wet hands, scoop tablespoons of the mix and shape them into patties about 1.2 cm (½ in) thick. Makes about 12 patties.

Pour 2 l neutral oil, for frying (enough for 7.5 cm depth) into a medium heavy saucepan to a depth of 7.5 cm (3 in) and heat it over medium-high heat.

Fry the patties in batches without crowding the pan until crisp and medium brown all over.

Lift them out into a colander or onto a paper towel lined plate to drain. Serve hot.

Crush ½ to 1 clove garlic, peeled with 1 ml salt in a mortar into a paste, or grate the garlic finely and mix it with the salt.

Blend the garlic paste, 89 ml tahini paste and 59 ml fresh lemon or lime juice in the food processor; it will seize and thicken as it emulsifies. Add 30 ml cold water a little at a time, blending, until it is as thick or thin as you like.

Taste and adjust with more juice or salt, then stir in 120 ml fresh parsley.

Serve the falafel hot with the tahini sauce, either on a platter with small plates of English cucumber, diced, tomatoes, diced and pickles, or stuffed into pita pockets, warmed with baby arugula and a generous drizzle of sauce.