New York Bagels, · 36 bagels

Stir ≈ 12 g instant yeast into ≈ 1440 g unbleached high-gluten flour in a large bowl. Add ≈ 1770 g water, at room temperature and whisk or stir only until it forms a smooth, sticky batter, like pancake batter.

Cover with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature for about 2 h.

Stir ≈ 6 g instant yeast into the sponge. Add ≈ 1080 g unbleached high-gluten flour (80%) with ≈ 49 g salt and ≈ 18 g malt powder, and stir, or mix on low speed with the dough hook, until it forms a ball. Work in ≈ 270 g unbleached high-gluten flour (the rest) gradually to stiffen the dough.

Knead on the counter for at least 10 min, or for 6 min in the mixer. If it tears and feels dry, add a few drops of water; if it is tacky, add a little flour.

Straight away, divide the dough into 36 pieces of about four and a half ounces each and form each into a smooth roll. Cover with a damp towel and rest for about 20 min.

Line two sheet pans with parchment and mist them lightly with spray oil.

Poke a hole through the middle of each ball and gently rotate your thumb inside it to widen the hole to about 6.5 cm (2 ½ in), stretching the ring as evenly as you can. Or roll each piece into a 20 cm (7 ¾ in) rope, wrap it around your hand with the ends overlapping in your palm, and roll the join on the counter to seal it.

Set the bagels 5 cm (2 in) apart on the pans, mist them lightly with oil, slip each pan into a food-safe plastic bag or cover loosely, and leave at room temperature for about 20 min.

Drop one bagel into a bowl of cool water. If it floats within about 10 s, pat it dry, return it to the pan and refrigerate the bagels overnight. If it sinks, keep proofing at room temperature and test again every 10 min to 20 min.

Heat the oven to 260 °C with two racks in the middle. Bring a large, wide pot of water to the boil and add ≈ 14 g baking soda and ≈ 42 to 63 g barley malt syrup, for the water, if using.

Take the bagels straight from the fridge and drop as many as fit comfortably into the boiling water. Boil for 1 min, flip and boil 1 min more, or 2 min a side for a chewier bagel. Lift them out with a skimmer.

Sprinkle the parchment with cornmeal or semolina, for dusting. Set the bagels back on the pans and top them straight away, while still wet, with sesame seeds, poppy seeds or kosher salt if you like.

Bake for 5 min, then rotate the pans: swap shelves and turn each pan around.

Lower the oven to 232 °C and bake for about 5 min more, until light golden brown, or longer if you like them darker.

Cool on a rack for at least 15 min before serving.