Neapolitan Pizza Margherita, · 4 pizzas

Pour the 245 g cold water into a large bowl, then add the 120 g boiling water straight off the boil. Check the temperature: between 40 °C and 46 °C suits dry yeast.

Whisk the 18 g fine sea salt and 1.5 g active dry yeast into the warm water until dissolved.

Tip in the 605 g 00 flour and stir with a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms, then work it with your hand until it gathers into a ball. In a stand mixer, add the liquid gradually to the flour on low speed.

Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface (00 flour, for dusting) and knead with both hands for about 10 min. In a mixer, run the dough hook on low for 5 min to 10 min.

Return the dough to the bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 h to 3 days.

Take the dough from the fridge and divide it into 4 equal pieces. Shape each into a tight, smooth ball by folding the edges underneath.

Set the balls in separate bowls or spaced out on a tray, cover with plastic wrap and leave on the counter for about 5 h.

Crush the 320 g canned whole San Marzano tomatoes by hand or with a fork into a rough, pulpy sauce and season with a little fine sea salt. Do not cook it; it cooks on the pizza.

Pizza oven: fire it up until the centre of the stone reads 450 °C to 500 °C on an infrared thermometer.

Home oven instead: set a rack in the middle with at least 20 cm (7 ¾ in) clearance below the broiler, put a baking steel or stone on it and heat the oven to its maximum, 260 °C to 290 °C. Hold it at temperature for at least 30 min so the steel heats right through.

Dust the counter and peel with 00 flour or semolina, for the peel. Press one dough ball into a flat disc with your fingertips, working from the centre outwards and leaving a 1 cm (⅜ in) rim untouched. Lift it and pinch gently around the edge, letting gravity stretch it to about 30 cm (11 ¾ in).

Lay the base on the peel. Spread a quarter of the sauce over it, leaving the rim bare, then scatter over 100 g fresh mozzarella (fior di latte) (a quarter) and drizzle with 5 g extra virgin olive oil (a quarter).

Pizza oven: slide the pizza onto the stone and bake for 1 min to 2 min, turning it a quarter turn every 20 s so it colours evenly.

Home oven: slide the pizza onto the steel and bake for about 6 min (7 min on a stone), then switch to the top broiler for 2 min to 3 min more, watching closely and turning as needed. Let the steel reheat for a few minutes between pizzas.

Scatter whole 1 bunch fresh basil leaves leaves over the pizza the moment it comes out, slice and serve at once. Repeat with the remaining dough balls.